any first-time travelers to Taiwan are surprised by its cultural diversity, especially by the rich history and traditions of its indigenous peoples. Currently, there are 13 officially recognized indigenous tribes: the Amis (阿美族), Atayal (泰雅族), Bunun (布農族), Kavalan (噶瑪蘭族; or Kamalan), Paiwan (排灣族), Puyuma (卑南族), Rukai (魯凱族), Saisiyat (賽夏族), Sakizaya (奇萊族), Thao (邵族), Truku (太魯閣族; or Taroko), Tsou (鄒族), and Yami (雅美族; or Tao [達悟族]), with a total population of around 450,000.
ALTHOUGH MANY INDIGENOUS PEOPLES LIVE IN VILLAGES in the mountains and along the east coast, a significant number have settled in urban areas such as Taipei in search of job and study opportunities. This is especially true among the younger aborigines, which has led to a cultural crisis as traditions and languages are not being effectively passed on. Fortunately, in recent years more and more attention has been paid to this problem and efforts are being made to preserve indigenous languages and traditions, including the establishment of Asia’s first indigenous TV channel, Taiwan Indigenous TV (channel 16).
In addi t ion, as ecotour i sm has gained in popularity, so has a thirst for exploration of Taiwan’s indigenous culture, as many indigenous areas are surrounded by natural beauty.
But, before heading to the villages, it is a good idea to acquire some basic information about the culture. A good place to do that is at the Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Aborigines (順益台灣原住民博物館; www.museum.org.tw), located a stone’s throw from the National Palace Museum (故宮博物院) in Taipei. This museum opened in 1994, and was for a time Taiwan’s only museum dedicated to its native peoples. There are four floors of exhibition areas featuring arts and handicrafts, weapons, tools, clothing, musical instruments, and dwellings, as well as a large theater that shows short films on Taiwan’s indigenous legends.
IN THE SMALL CITY OF TAITUNG (台東), on Taiwan’s east coast, a large cultural festival, the Fes t ival of Aus t rones ian and Formosa Indigenous Cultures (台東南島文化節), is held each summer. This festival invites native groups from Austronesian countries to display their handicrafts, customs, songs, and dances. Taiwan’s indigenous peoples are believed to be part of the Aus t rones ian-language fami ly, which boasts the largest distribution of any language family in the world, and includes not only the indigenous peoples of Taiwan but also the Maori of New Zealand and the peoples of Polynesia, Micronesia, and Melanesia. It is interesting to note, however, that although there are some similarities in their languages, Taiwan’s indigenous tribes each has a unique language not understood by people of other tribes.
This festival takes place in a park not far from the National Museum of Prehistory (國立台灣史前文化博物館; www.nmp.gov.tw), which is also a good place for learning about Taiwan’s indigenous culture. Its gift shop sells a good selection of books on this subject, as well as CDs of traditional and contemporary indigenous music.
Summertime is also the time when the Amis tribe, concentrated in the coastal mountains and plains of Hualien (花蓮) and Taitung counties, holds its harvest festival. This usually lasts for several days, during which the members of the tribe (in various combinations, such as young warriors, females only, etc.) dance in a circle to the chants of a tribal elder. The dates for the festival differ among the villages, but are usually around the middle of July for Taitung and around the middle of August for Hualien. Most of the villages welcome visitors to join in on the celebrations, including the dancing.
Other options for mixing cultural and ecotourism exist in Hualien, where many of the whale-watching tours that depart from Shihtiping (石梯坪) and white-water rafting tours that depart from Rueisuei (瑞穗) are operated by local aborigines, and sometimes include packages with dinner and other activities in nearby villages.
In central Taiwan, near Sun Moon Lake (日月潭) in Nantou County (南投縣), is the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village (九族文化村; www.nine.com.tw). This is an outdoor museum with life-size models of traditional dwellings. Next to these models, indigenous people dressed in traditional costume demonstrate art forms such as weaving and woodcarving. There is also an outdoor stage area for indigenous song-and-dance performances.
The Indigenous Peoples Cultural Park (原住民族文化園區) in Majia Township (瑪家鄉), Pingtung County (屏東縣), is also an outdoor museum offering similar attractions. The park is managed by the Council of Indigenous Peoples (原住民族委員會), the main government agency tasked with handling indigenous affairs. Information about Taiwan’s indigenous tribes and the culture park is available on the council’s website (www.tapc.gov.tw). There is also a section on travel to indigenous villages. Suggested itineraries for those villages can also be found on the Tourism Bureau’s website (www.taiwan.net.tw).
AS THERE ARE LITERALLY HUNDREDS OF INDIGENOUS VILLAGES in Taiwan, the travel opportunities are almost limitless. One of the most accessible is Wulai (烏來), an Atayal village located in the hills upriver from Sindian (新店) in Taipei County. This area has gained a reputation for its natural hot-springs and scenic attractions, rather than for its indigenous culture. But if you head to Wulai Old Street (烏來老街) you will find a plethora of indigenous-cuisine restaurants and handicrafts stores. This is also the location for the Wulai Atayal Museum (烏來泰雅民族博物館), where you can learn more about this tribe.
Near the opposite end of the island is Sandimen (三地門) in Pingtung County, just a few minutes’ drive from National Freeway No. 3 along Provincial Highway No. 24. Here is a collection of Paiwan artist workshops where you can purchase glazed-bead jewelry, embroidered cloth, woodcarvings, pottery, and leather items. If you have the time, continue along Provincial Highway No. 24 to the Rukai village of Wutai (霧台). In this village, attractions include a cultural-artifacts hall and a path along which there are stone carvings that depict Rukai ceremonies and traditions, as well as a stone church and a traditional slate dwelling. There are more than a dozen homestay options in this village, so finding a place to stay where you can in more intimate fashion learn about the way of life of the Rukai is not difficult. You will need a mountain permit to enter this village, which can be applied for at any foreign-affairs police station.
Alishan National Scenic Area (阿里山國家風景區) in Chiayi County (嘉義縣) is famous for its narrow-gauge alpine railway, mountain forests, and gorgeous sunrises. But it is also home to eight Tsou villages. Each has developed tourism facilities such as restaurants, homestays, cultural museums, and artist workshops. For more information, visit the dedicated website (www.ali.org.tw).
Maolin National Scenic Area (茂林國家風景區) in Kaohsiung County possesses Bunun, Paiwan, and Rukai villages within its boundaries. The Rukai village of Duona (多納) contains a collection of traditional slate houses, a rare sight in modern Taiwan. Near Duona are natural hot springs located next to a crystal-clear river. This village also boasts a handful of homestays and restaurants. More information is available online (www.maulin-nsa.gov.tw).
INDIGENOUS HANDICRAFTS AND ARTWORKS make great and unique souvenirs of your travel to Taiwan. They can be purchased directly from artists in their village workshops, from the gift shops in the above-mentioned museums, or online from Tribe-Asia (www.tribe-asia.com). Tribe-Asia is also working to develop itineraries for foreign travelers to visit indigenous villages. Its first is a two-day tour to Wangsiang Village (望鄉部落) in Nantou County (南投縣) in conjunction with Green Island Adventures (www.greenislandadventures.com). This is a Bunun village with excellent views of Yushan (玉山), northeast Asia’s tallest peak, and a number of its residents are eco-tour guides certified to lead hikers to the numerous summits of this massive, majestic rock. This village also boasts a hiking trail, once the exclusive domain of hunters, and is situated only a few minutes’ drive from Dongpu Hot Springs (東埔溫泉).
From this small sampling, it should be clear that there are many exciting ways to experience Taiwan’s indigenous culture and to meet its indigenous peoples. So get ready for an unforgettable travel experience.
